Forget past associations, the elegant bottle is now a statement of intent for the fresh, floral, racy wines insideJim Barry The Lodge Dry Riesling, Australia 2022 (£15.99, or £11.99 in a mixed case, Majestic) For a large part of the wine-drinking population, the sight of a tall, slim fluted wine bottle is still enough to bring a shudder of horror at the prospect of the acidic sugar water they assume is contained within these undeniably elegant vessels. The flute, after all, is the bottle of Blue Nun, Liebfraumilch and other throwbacks to the bad old days of mass-market German wine – to the…